Wow, I did not know there was such a hardcore following of these that could drive such prices. Cool!
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Each one you can buy for around $40 (except the cream-colored one). However, since you can stay a really long time until you collect all four colors, you can do well selling all four if they are all sealed.
Another strategy is to sell one with a matching pencil. For about $80, I sold (twice) a red A. W. Faber Sure-Grip 6803 leadholder with a red EMCA Precision Point Lead Pointer.
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Whoa! That is quite a mic drop here! Amazing piece!
I suspect there is a single company behind many old designs – the classic Caran d’Ache pencil sharpener is practically identical to one I have with the Italian brand “Presbitero” imprinted on the top, so it is quite possible that the origin is common, or at least can be traced back to the same patent.
PS: another amazing piece, which I now feel almost obliged to look for…
If you look at my first picture mine are all color matched to the Fugle’s. The button matches the plastic, and the metal matches the band.
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Yes, I have noticed.
The golden electroplated lead pointer was probably only provided with the blue lead holders, but it can be switched with other ones as well.
There were 2 types of blades for these, steel and a harder carbon steel (IIRC). On the sharpeners, the difference in how they were sold was the silver or gold band.
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Yep! Exactly…
I love that they’ve retained their sticker perfectly! Very nice
Yeah these are usually stored away. I do have a set of Targa (pictures on the right) that I’ve used quite a bit over the years.
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Woooow
Mesmerizing
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Love those marble Tikkys!
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When were these released?
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They are not in any of the catalogs but I’ve been told early 1990s
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LION 3450 (0.5 mm)
UNIPOINT SATURN PM-605 (0.5 mm) [Platinum MT-350 clone]
Uchida Drawing Sharp S knock, 0.5 mm.
A big thanks to @drifand!
I have the LION 3430 but without any stickers. The 3450 feels just as good. Well done mechanism. The PM-605 turned out to be a little better than I’d thought. The lead hardness indicator spins rather freely (as they designed it, sadly) and there’s no way to intentionally introduce friction in some way, because it’s not possible to disassemble. Apparently they glued the body together. The nosecone is the only part that can be unscrewed. Still, it has a nice mechanism and with its weight, it feels a little like a rOtring 600. The Uchida Drawing Sharp S Knock is decent for a ¥500 pencil. The grip is a mediocre grade plastic but it does afford some grip. It has a “crinkly” sounding mechanism click, but does advance a modest amount of lead pretty consistently. The body has a nice gradual taper on both ends that telegraphs a faint echo of its more expensive cousins–the D, E, and KN.
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The only thing I can think of to remedy the Saturn’s loose dial is to try some TAMIYA EXTRA THIN CEMENT. It’s a clear liquid glue that’s intended for delicate plastic model kits with very close fitting parts. I’ve use this in the past to drip a little of it into loose fitting mechanisms to ‘bulk up’ the space between them. I’d apply it and jiggle/move the parts around to spread the fluid, let it sit for 30 seconds and jiggle it again. Repeat. etc. until the right level of tightness is achieved.
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That sounds like a great idea – will definitely give it a go!