Platinum PU241… Is it da bomb?

Platinum’s latest offering, the PRO USE 241, just dropped at THINK, possibly the best speciality stationery store here in Singapore. The retail price is a rather stiff SGD 45, but you can find it for about 2,500 to 2,800 JPY direct from Japan.

I am not one to measure my MPs with calipers or even to weigh them, but the grip is almost / probably identical to that of the preceding Pro Use 171, and also very similar to OHTO’s MS01. The balance point is at the ON/OFF markings used to indicate the cushioning mode. And while the button is very similarly sized to the 171’s they are not interchangeable. For what it’s worth, the 241’s end piece of the lead reserve tube that connects to the button is metal, unlike the 171.


I have taken to calling it PU241, and I really thought it was a subconscious pun to create an outsized impact for Platinum’s MP sales. But in fact, the press release states that since 2017, the 3-digit naming convention for the Pro Use series has been as follows: the first 2 digits refer to the year of release, followed by a single digit indicating the order of release. So 171 = 1st Pro Use model released in 2017. The other thing that Platinum saw fit to retain is their ‘signature’ metal clip, whose kinked end always manages to poke me as I do the manual ‘kurutoga’ finger dance.


Ok, how does it perform vis a vis its closest competitors? I found the 241’s mix of technical features to be a combination of those found in the 171 and OHTO Conception, and to a lesser degree, the MS01.

I will start with the feel of the grip: Amongst these 4 designs, the grippiest is the 241, followed closely by the MS01. The 171 is too smooth by comparison, and the merely ‘roughened’ processing on the Conception is the worst.

Looking at the tips, all of them have the ability to retract their guide pipes to different degrees. The 171 and MS01 can fully retract their pipes. The other two however leave a minuscule amount of about 1mm protruding on the 241 and 0.5mm on the Conception.


When the pipes are fully extended, the 171 and MS01 reach the standard 4mm for drafting designs. The 241 and Conception only reach 3mm. Thus, in slide pipe mode, the latter two pipes have a maximum travel of 2mm before you need to click the button for more lead. Perhaps unintended for the 241, but the ‘inability’ to fully stow the shorter pipe also means that the un-knurled ‘neck’ between the grip and the tip also doesn’t look as silly as it does on the 171.

Lastly, the combination of features for the 241. The markings for the cushioning setting are printed on the blue plastic barrel just above the metal grip. Like the FC Tk-fine Vario L, and the 171, folks have been confused by these diagrams. Do I twist the grip in the indicated directions to turn the cushioning on and off? What? It does the opposite??

The trick is: hold the grip in one hand, and twist the barrel all the way to the left for no cushioning / twist it all the way right to activate the spring. There is no in-between mode so just pick one.

The knurled tip is no longer for extending or retraction the pipe like on the 171. Lowering the tip all the way allows the pipe to slide back inside. Screwing the tip back into the housing turns the pipe into a rigid one.

So yes, theoretically you have 4 modes by combining fixed/slide pipe with cushioning / no cushioning. In reality, I just find two modes being the most useful: fixed pipe and no cushioning for maximum control OR slide pipe with cushioning for more expressive drawing, especially with softer leads, even though the 241 only lists 2B, B, HB, F, H, 2H and 4H.

Lastly, the color and the limitation to just 0.5mm… the blue is by far the more attractive color. The ‘black’ looked like a muddy gray, just like the lacklustre 231. For Platinum, it seems like they can’t or do not want to produce 0.3mm models anymore. I hope this’d trend doesn’t reach Pentel, Pilot and Mitsubishi too quickly.

Here’s to the little explosion of joy that is the PU241. At least it wasn’t a dud.

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Thanks a lot for the info. What about the cap? The 171 suffered from a chronic problem where the cap would not attach properly to the pencil and would come off easily. To solve this, it was necessary to deepen the hole in the metal that attaches to the tube.

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Reaching @Kiwi-d levels of review quality.

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Excellent review, Kelvin! Very nice to see these detailed comparisons.

I noticed your photo pointing out the clip… and yeah, that would be a little bothersome, the upward curved end contacting against the hand. How difficult is it to remove the clip? It looks like the barrel material is a very solid glossy plastic so scratches may be minimal or easy to buff out. I wish they’d used a clip design more like the MS-01.

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There is very little I think I can add to @drifand 's impeccable review, so let me just ramble here for a while, inspired by the post itself.

When it comes to truly loving a pencil, few things matter to me more than the balance and the way the tips accommodates my personal style (and quirks) of writing and drawing: I’ve tried celebrated and supposedly excellent pencils which were just “incomprehensible” to me regarding those two matters — I still have mixed feelings for my rOtring Art Pencil: I love it, but it triggers my nerves at times — and I’ve found much more modest items which however delivered flawlessly on both elements (to name some: the Pilot H-585, the Staedtler Mars 780, the Faber-Castell 6803 Sure-Grip, the super-humble FILA “Tratto Mina” — which deserves a post here for sure).

Back to the Platinum, which is a perfect example in this case: I recently found a Pro-Use 171, in what was sold to me as a limited-edition night-blue colour, at a physical shop in Udine (1 hr car trip from Trieste: the seller still had some other colours, like a couple of red and a violet, should anyone need assistance in getting those), and I’ve been tinkering with it for a while: it’s great, the knurling on the grip area is very pleasant, and when the tip si completely out there is an almost perfect contact between the knurled area and the raised, secondary grip close to the tip, which is amazing since I tend to put my index tip very close to the writing part of the MP.

So, everything ok, right? Right? Well, not exactly. The pencil is decidedly front-heavy, maybe a smidge too front-heavy (in the sense that the front end is just too heavy in general, at least for my taste, maybe in view of all the complications related to the cushioning system), and while this is probably spot-on for drafting, it is not as great for long note-taking sessions. This issue is not uncommon: an Ohto OP-1004P “Promecha” I have has a similar problem, and in my view is greatly overshadowed by the much more humble, but much better balanced, Ohto SP-504P.

For different reasons I tend to look suspiciously at the Ohto MS01 (the boundary of the grip area may be too far from the place I expect to rest my finger on), and I’m afraid the Pro-Use 241 might be, in a similar fashion, too heavy and too front-heavy. The Ohto Conception seems strangely inviting, and while I see that the tip is not so different from the other ones, for inexplicable, irrational reasons I feel it might be a bit better (but then the question becomes: how much better should it be to overcome the defects of its companions?).

On the positive side, all these pencils allow for an easy removal of the pocket clips: at least I can have a fully free writing experience once I get rid of the clip, without too much worrying. I did that to my Pro-Use 171, without any visible damage to the body plastic (to answer @cytherian 's question).

This just to say that there is so much in a pencil, which is why pencils and leadholders are among my favourite tools by far: designing and engineering any of such objects must be immensely difficult, even when one wants to create the simplest possible version. I’m amazed. :slight_smile:

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When you’re a mechanical pencil novice (meaning, little experience beyond a few rather cheap models), it’s easy to miss out on all of the possible design considerations. Mechanical pencil design is an art. It can be minimalist and low effort, to simply make something utilitarian while also useful for the masses. But then… it can be so much more. It’s all about the nuances of use. The overall weight, the weight distribution, the girth, the grip, the quality, the sounds… so many things come together. And while early on I appreciated good quality mechanical pencils like the Staedtler Micrograph and rOtring 600, it wasn’t until I caught sight of the vintage mechanical pencils from Japan. It was such a major discovery. Because the Japanese have a cultural thing of high respect for the writing instrument, much the way Asian Indians have a very high respect for the book. You treat them with care. You recognize their importance. And as such, the Japanese sought to not only overbuild their pencils for lasting durability, but also indulge design whims that are usually functional (TOMBOW decided to flirt with form over function in some models, which gave them their own special place in the genre).

When I pick up a high quality vintage Japanese pencil and put it to use, I feel a kind of awe… because you can tell the designer(s) took their job seriously and wanted to create something that would impart some joy with use. And I not only think about those original designers, I wonder too about the people who came before me, the drafting, engineers, and architects who may have used these pencils in creating diagrams and technical drawings for the creation of things to come.
I wish we’d have more visibility into the designers of mechanical pencils.
https://forum.knockology.com/uploads/default/original/2X/d/d30648fd74ec2a35b41e56ac2c5ab6e821884f53.jpeg

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By ‘cap’ do you mean the knock / button? My original 171 0.9 in white had a problem: the plastic ‘cover’ for the lead degree display actually split and fell off. I had to reattach it with some blu tack to help it stay on. This ended up ‘improving’ the functionality as it previously just ‘spun around’ and couldn’t stay aligned with the lead degree I had set.

However, the whole button was seated quite firmly onto the end of the reserve tube. Comparing the 171 to 241 reveals an interesting point:

The button construction of the 241 is like a tank when you compare the thickness of the metal wall.

The erasers are the same, while the outer button diameter of the 171 is wider than the 241. You can also see the 241’s metal end piece versus the 171’s black plastic.

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By cap I mean the knock button. I have two 171s and on both of them the part comes off easily. What I had to do was take the little metal hole that holds the part to the plastic tube and deepen it a little, in the image below I show the area I had to deepen:
example

It seems that they solved this problem on the 241, another reason to buy it.

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The thicker 241 button also helps to reduce the gap with the outer walls and minimize rattling.

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Sorry for off-topic, but I just can’t help myself: For me, the Staedtler Mars 780 is one of the best lead holders ever and deserves far more attention. Especially the old versions are simply great!

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