Is there a W on it? Did you find out the model number when we all found it here?
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@cytherian, what @Thomas is saying is that none of us knew the model number of the Pentel W-knock until March, when the first dozen (with original box) came up for sale on YAJ.
So weāre trying to clarify: Are you using the P1025 notation because youāve learned it since March, or were you aware of the W-knockās P1025 designation prior to that?
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Youāre better at words than me. 
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No, I didnāt have any awareness of the model number until I learned about it here. 
IMHO, itās not that great. I think the PSD5 is miles above it. And the Mitsubishi W-Knock is superior to the P1025.
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Whoa, totally disagree here! The W-knocks are cheap and rely on plastic moulding inside the barrel for first-click calibration.
For clarification, Mitsubishi W-knocks have plastic barrels. The Mitsubishi stainless steel double-knocksāwhich I think youāre convoluting with their W-knockāare only superior in the sense they have steel-on-steel threading.
The knock mechanism itself has a fatal flaw that is evidenced in almost every specimen Iāve ever seen: When the tip is retracted, lead will āleakā out of the sleeve.
The Pentel W-knock exhibits no such sloppiness. The only criticism of the W-knock is the use of plastic threading, but as Iāve stated elsewhere, I believe Pentelās engineers included design features to mitigate resin cracking at the joint (grooved flange on the resin and a free-floating interior sleeve which receives the plastic threading).
I also think the Pentel W-knock deserves props for its fat barrel, hairline finish, and nicely machined cap.
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I have a Mitsubishi W-Knock skeleton to compare. Nice, strong, tight spring. Deployment is super smooth, no rubbing, no travel noise. I donāt know what youāre talking about by ālead leak.ā Do you mean āslippage?ā In my two examples the lead is firmly held, until you click to advance. When retracted, you can wiggle the pen, up/down & sidewaysā¦ no lead slipping out.
The used Pentel P1025 example I have has a tight spring, but thereās a bit of a āscrapingā feeling when extending the tip. Not smooth. The plastic body feels cheap. The clip sucks. The mechanism for deploying and retracting the tip doesnāt make me feel as confident as when using the W-Knock. Maybe when brand new the P1025 performs better? I disassembled and checked it. Donāt see any undue wear. The only cosmetic challenge is plating flaking off the clip, that I mentioned earlier.
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Old Pixie - before and after using Bar Keeperās Friend on the clip only. Instructions say avoid plastic so I removed the clip and did not have the BLF in contact with the metal for more than a minute at a time, rinsing thoroughly each time.
Just took 3 to get this result.
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Dude, looks great!
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I recently won an auction (Elton) for an early 600 (generation 3 or 4 - need to see the cap) that is in pretty poor shape. It was one of those poor judgment moves where I put a $15 bid, not expecting to win. But hey - this dog is mine now so I better take care of it. It shipped about a week ago so should be here in a week or less.
Iām kicking around the idea of making a ārestoration videoā and clean this up with some Bar Keepers Friend, since Iāve had such good success with it in the past.
I wanted to see if anyone here had any feedback, comments, hints, or warnings, etc. The label is pretty clear about not using it on painted surfaces, so Iāll be extra careful when working near the logo. Any other suggestions?
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Well, it is possible it may clean up well with a little work. Iād mask off the label for the main cleaning with Bar Keeperās Friend. After that, remove the label tape and use a cut-down cotton swab to work on the rest, to be careful not to scrub off the label. You might want to try making a Bar Keeperās Friend paste, then put little dabs of it on the rust dots that are near the label.
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Youāre the master of cleaning pieces. Donāt second-guess yourself, Homie. 
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ahh thanks man
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